Houlbergs Vinblog | 92/100

The Austrian Laurenz Maria Moser V aka Lenz Moser is a diligent man who is involved in many joint-venture collaborations and the latest is Ribeiro & Moser, where in Portugal he is behind this 2022 Arinto.

The name Lenz Moser is probably known to most people, but Laurenz Maria Moser V is from the most traditional wine growing family in Austria and the family's history goes back to the 12th century.

The V in Laurenz Maria Moser V is the Roman numeral for 5, as Larenz Maria Moser is the 5th generation Laurenz Maria Moser. He thus comes from a family that for more than 150 years ran a winery of the same name, namely Weinkelleri Lenz Moser in Austria.

The family has had a significant influence on the Austrian wine industry, but Lenz Moser was to become the fifth and last generation at the historic winery, but in the mid-1980s he sold the winery because he did not want to work for the bank and for the family.

He wanted to make his own wines ... and primarily from Austria's national grape Grüner Veltliner. His grandfather Dr. Laurenz Moser III was even called Grandpa Grüner because of his role in promoting the Grüner Veltliner grape back in the early 1930s. He also invented a completely new trellis system in 1978, which pioneered biodynamic viticulture in Austria.

After the sale, Lenz Moser has been managing director of Robert Mondavi, but has also been active in various projects, e.g. In 2004, he founded the wine house Laurenz V together with his old friends Dieter Hübler and Franz Schweiger, who today continue to run it without Lenz, who has instead thrown himself into new projects.

I have, among other things, tasted wines from project LenzMark aka New Chapter, where Lenz makes fantastic Grüner Veltliner wines together with another Austrian winemaker Markus Huber.

I have also tasted fabulous wines from the Ma'd Moser project, where together with Károly Kovác from Mád Winery in Hungary, he makes some frighteningly good Furmint wines.

Now Lenz Moser has cast his love on Portugal, where he has teamed up with winemaker Pedro Ribeiro, who is both director and winemaker at Herdade do Rocim on a daily basis... a winery that we have also previously come across here on the wine blog. It is also at Herdade do Rocim in the Alentejo area that the wine in their joint project is made.

The two winemakers have called their project Ribeiro & Moser and the first wine is this 2022 Arinto, where the grapes come from fields in the Lisboa area... and of course made precisely with the Arinto grape.

Arinto is a white grape variety known for its ability to produce fresh wines with lively acidity. Arinto can give a nice high yield and at the same time retain a certain fruitiness and freshness in aroma and taste. It is an important late-ripening variety, but it is characteristic of Arinto that it retains its acidity in extremely hot summers.

At Ribeiro & Moser, the wine is made with fermentation in concrete tanks. After fermentation, the wine is also aged in the concrete tanks, but 10% of the wine is both fermented and aged in 500 liter oak barrels.

The wine is then bottled in a lighter bottle due to better sustainability and thus the bottle weighs only 360 grams compared to the normal 570 grams for a more normal bottle... a weight reduction of 36.8%... what are we not doing for the environment? Tough.

The nose seems incredibly fresh and crisp, is my first thought... it's like getting a fresh breeze of salty sea water right in your head, which makes you perk up and get on your toes. There is both a bit of peach and green apples, lots of lemon and Schweppes Lemon soda, as well as a light sprinkling of cumin and chalky chalk with a faint rural side.

In the mouth, the wine is not as crisp and crisp... the acidity is more vague, more liquid like a calm river, calming, quiet and is also almost creamy here. There are lots of green apples and again good with lemon, has a little bitterness and good fullness at the back of the mouth. The wine has some dryness and lots of this lemony bitterness with a bit of lemon, which helps to give a rather long aftertaste. 92 points.

There are no retailers here yet, but in Europe the wine costs around €25... corresponding to DKK 186.

Wine review 5/7

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